There realy isnt to much to do to these cars, just follow the manual and you have a winner.  Here are a few tips to make it even better.

Suggested hop ups in order of importance:

• Lundsford titanium axles (no e-clips, lighter and wont bend)
• Tamiya wheel spacers (used as front suspension spacers alows fine tuning of front ride height)
• IRS lowering pods (alows you to use up your tires and keep some ride height)
• IRS rear axle height adjusters (alows fine tuning ride height)
• Kimbrough diff covers (keeps the diff clean and smooth)
• Metal caster washers in the front upper arms (the soft plastic ones distort/squish and allow arm slop)
• IRS alloy suspension arm balls
• IRS alloy T plate balls

The first step should be filing the chassis.  Remove all the sharp edges on the chassis by lightly filing with a fine file.  Avoid getting graphite on your skin or inhailed by doing all the filing in water or under a tap.  Pay special attention to where the battery strapping tape wraps around the chassis, this area should be filed very smooth and rounded as so not to cut the tape when you pile it into the boards.  'Cap' the chassis by using super thin CA (cyanoacrylate) along all the edges.  This will help protect the chassis from spliting and fraying.  Using some CA on the rear damper post will make sure it wont loosen and will be rock solid and that is very important for it to work properly.

Make sure anytime you make a camber adjustment that you square the upper arm (red) to the king pin axis (yellow) to avoid any binding.

If you use alot of caster angle the steering block may rub the lower suspension arm.  File the top, back side of the suspension arm so the steering block doesnt rub.

Pick up a set of Tamiya wheel spacers, they come in a package of 8, 4 thin, 4 thick for fine tuning ride height and Lundsford titanium axles are a must have item. 

Its pretty simple, lay out your electronics to ballance out the chassis.  Because I use a personal transponder and sometimes I race at a track that only uses their own transponders, I have my PT centered on the chassis so when I need to remove the PT and use a track transponder it wont affect my ballance.

A 12 scale car is so easy to set up and there isnt that much to do but doing it right is crutial.

First step it to prep the tires.  I usually true new tires down a bit to 45mm on the front and 48mm on the rear. I champfer the outside edge of the tires on a 60* angle to help protect the foam from chunking.  There is no need to true the tires after this, just make sure you keep rotating the tires to make sure they are the same size left to right. Measure the tires often and put the larger diameter tires to the outside (left side on a clockwise track).

Next, set your ride height.  Measure the rear first and set it to your ride height using the axle spacers.  IRS makes some trick spacers in .5mm increments 0.3.5 and use the 4 from Associated.  Now set your front ride height using the Tamiya spacers for more precise adjustments.  After the front and the rear height is adjusted you now have to adjust the centre.  Adjust the shock spring preload to make the centre height the same as the front.

Adjust the front camber using the RPM camber gauge and make sure the top camber link end is level with the king pin.

Adjust the front toe using the camber gauge holding the car up on the front of the chassis.

Set the tweek using the RPM tweek station so the rear pod is level.  This way to set tweek is better than the procedure in the manual using a knife to lift the front end because there are too many variables and loose tolerances in the front end to be acurate. 

Last thing to do is set the diff.  With the car race ready lay it on the track and with the car pointed towards yourself push it away and pull full throttle and have the diff just tight enough to not slip.  At the end of any race day loosen off the diff to take the stress off the bearings and reset the diff at the beginning of the next race day.